Editor’s choice: 12 go-to Houston restaurants from our local expert

There’s a cheekiness to this self-proclaimed “unapologetically Thai” restaurant. While the mood is light and fun, the food is taken very seriously. James Beard Award-winning chef Benchawan Jabthong Painter pulls no punches in her menu: The dishes are Thai-level hot, the ingredients are fresh, and seasonal specials are served in limited quantities—when they’re out, they’re out. Go with a group and sample as much as possible, and don’t miss the drunken noodles or pad Thai with Gulf shrimp.

Choosing where to take out-of-town visitors to eat can be a challenge, but JŪN always tops my list. Chef-owners Evelyn Garcia and Henry Lu infuse their Latin- and Asian-influenced menu with flavors from their backgrounds (Garcia grew up in Houston; Lu was raised in the Bronx) in wholly unique ways. Their cultural experiment is best experienced through dishes like beef tartare with a sesame buñuelo; and carrots topped with salsa macha, Salvadoran cheese, and a quail egg.

At this Southern spot, the hospitality is as comforting as chef Greg Gatlin’s buttermilk biscuits and jam. The Gatlin family makes it feel like a welcoming Sunday supper, no matter what day it is at Fin and Feathers. What’s even better is knowing that the warm vibes are a preview for the soulful food—dig into a hot plate of fried catfish or grilled jerk chicken with pigeon peas and rice, or share a dozen char-grilled oysters with a crew.

After more than half a century in Houston, Brennan’s signature hospitality and enduring New Orleans-accented charm—not to mention its tableside flambés—ensure it’s a go-to for celebrations. For generations of Houstonians with a love for comforting Creole dishes, this is the place to go extra big with a platter of Gulf oysters, blackened Gulf fish with lump crab, and bread pudding with whiskey sauce.

Seafood, fried chicken, and one of my favorite burgers in Houston define the feel-good menu at La Lucha. Because of the smart way the space is set up, it’s just as fun to dine alone at the bar as it is to share a meal with a date in the dining room or spread out with a group on a wooden patio table. It’s the kind of laid-back place where a boozy milkshake—dulce de leche soft serve and whiskey—feels like a natural choice.

There’s no shortage of excellent sushi in Houston, but Aiko’s is that rare, versatile spot that can fulfill weeknight sushi cravings and host your next splurge-worthy occasion. Hand rolls, nigiri, and sashimi—all excellent and seasonal based on what’s fresh—aren’t the only things worth seeking out on the menu; even what seems like a humble pickled mushroom dish packs enough flavor to stand out among spectacular fish dishes.

Chef Kiran Verma’s namesake restaurant specializes in north Indian staples—with a twist. Yes, there is a killer chicken tikka masala, but the highlights also include experimental fusion food, like naan pizzas topped with everything from lamb barbacoa to Verma’s grandson’s favorite, macaroni and cheese. Go on weekends and you’ll be treated to tea service that features a live harpist, plus Verma’s take on English afternoon classics like curried crab sandwiches and truffle masala chips.

This charming neighborhood restaurant has the unique ability to transport diners to a cozy taverna, far from the bustle of Rice Village. The kitchen puts out beautiful plates of regional Greek dishes made with local ingredients like whole-roasted fish with grilled okra and feta-brined chicken with roasted lemon potatoes. My move is ordering a tried-and-true favorite like the trio of dips, along with something seasonal, then asking the staff to help me navigate the impressive Greek wine list.

Looks aren’t everything, but it would be a challenge to find prettier plates than what’s served at Pacha Nikkei. Award-winning chef Masaru Fukuda’s Japanese Peruvian dishes, like ceviche and tiradito, bring pops of color—and equally big pops of flavor—to the table. Even the vegetables adorning the lomo saltado stand out, forming a stunning edible rainbow of potato wedges, red onions, and tomatoes.

Dark wooden tables, attentive service, and Paris-inspired food not typically found in Houston, like escargots and duck a l’orange, will have you believing that Maison Pucha Bistro is as French as it gets. But chef Manuel Pucha takes a few surprising detours on the menu to show off his Ecuadorian heritage through dishes like shrimp ceviche and wagyu beef empanadas, and it’s this unexpected combo that keeps me coming back for more.

The Menil museum campus is an oasis in the middle of the city, and this restaurant, set in an arts and crafts-style bungalow, is where I go to fuel up after strolling the artistic grounds. Get the sous-vide salmon salad and a bowl of French onion soup, or go all out with afternoon tea service, and you’ll quickly see why this cool, minimalist escape is an extension of its elegant surroundings.

Biting into a perfectly juicy har gau dumpling makes for a great start to a dim sum feast at Taste of Mulan. Bring a few friends to do justice to the massive menu, which features hits like barbecue pork buns and shrimp rice noodle rolls. The restaurant’s strip-mall location makes it feel like an under-the-radar spot, but the secret’s out—Taste of Mulan serves up some of the best Cantonese-style dishes in the Loop, if not all of Houston.